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Prarthana Majumdar, PhD
5 min read5 days ago

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When we first entered Indiaโ€™s informal sector, we had no idea that textiles dominated 80% of its workforce. We were city folks, oblivious to the deep connection between fabric-making and rural livelihoods. But as fate would have it, we eventually landed in that space. What we observed was fascinating โ€” textiles were not just a craft for these maker clusters; they were a way of life, passed down through generations. And yet, despite their mastery, textiles were never seen as a science, nor was there much room for structured innovation.

At the same time, we crossed paths with Tata Trustโ€™s Livelihood Program, a major initiative focused on craft-based employment. While their goal was to create sustainable livelihoods, ours was more direct: co-experiment with makers to develop natural textiles that deliver extraordinary sensory experiences. The synergy was instant. Their textile designers aligned with our vision, and together, we embarked on a journey that would merge tradition with cutting-edge research.

The Hidden Problem: Itโ€™s Not Capital, Itโ€™s Innovation

If you ask most people what the biggest challenge in the informal sector is, theyโ€™d likely say lack of capital. But after working closely with artisans and textile producers, we realized the real bottleneck: a lack of structured innovation. In a fast-moving world where synthetic textiles dominate 62% of global fiber production (Source: Textile Exchange, 2023), traditional makers often struggle to keep up. Their deep-rooted practices, though rich in heritage, lack systematic R&D to compete with the engineered performance of synthetics.

So, we asked ourselves two fundamental questions:

  1. Can we take stock of all natural fibers that are available and economically viable?
  2. Can we use these fibers as building blocks for blending, tuning their properties to create different sensory experiences โ€” like adjusting sliders on a soundboard?

Softness, stiffness, transparency, breathability โ€” could we create textiles that hit the perfect balance for modern use while staying true to natural materials? That became our mission.

The Experiment: A Sensory Lab for Textiles

Our journey led us to Dzukou Handmade, our research-driven brand focused on blending nature, science, and craftsmanship. Unlike fast fashion brands that rely on synthetics for performance, we wanted to push natural fibers to their absolute limits. Our method was simple yet revolutionary: treat textile R&D like a sensory lab โ€” experimenting, testing, and fine-tuning fibers like an engineer would tweak circuits in a prototype.

We started by analyzing over 20 natural fibers, including Eri silk, hemp, banana fiber, and various types of cotton and wool. Each fiber was evaluated based on:

  • Tactile qualities: Softness, texture, drape
  • Visual aesthetics: Sheen, translucency, surface variation
  • Temperature response: Heat retention, breathability, moisture-wicking properties

Then, we mapped these properties against market needs โ€” because innovation doesnโ€™t work in a vacuum. Our goal was to make textiles that were not just traditional, but highly functional, sensorially rich, and desirable to modern consumers.

After 10 months of development, we created an extensive array of blended natural fabrics, each designed to evoke a unique sensory experience. To ensure long-term viability, we put them through a resting period โ€” a crucial phase where we observe how these textiles behave over time, checking for durability, pilling, softness retention, and overall wearability.

The Sustainability Question: Natural vs. Engineered Performance

One of the biggest challenges in sustainable fashion today is the dominance of synthetics. Over 342 million barrels of oil are used annually to produce synthetic fibers like polyester (Source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2022). While brands talk about recycled polyester, the fact remains that these materials shed microplastics, contribute to pollution, and depend on fossil fuels.

But the problem isnโ€™t just environmental โ€” itโ€™s sensory. Synthetics lack the richness and breathability of natural fibers, yet they remain the default choice because theyโ€™re engineered for performance. Thatโ€™s where our work at Dzukou Handmade comes in.

By meticulously blending natural fibers, weโ€™re proving that nature itself can be hacked โ€” without needing plastic. Weโ€™re developing textiles that feel amazing, function beautifully, and offer longevity without the environmental cost.

The Road Ahead: From R&D to Product Prototypes

As exciting as textile innovation is, the real challenge lies in scaling it to everyday products. Weโ€™re now in the next phase: building product prototypes that bring our sensory textiles to life.

Our focus areas include:

  • Outerwear and layering pieces that maximize natural thermoregulation
  • Loungewear with elevated sensory comfort โ€” a perfect mix of softness, weight, and breathability
  • Accessories and soft furnishings that highlight the textural beauty of our fabrics

Unlike traditional fashion brands, our approach isnโ€™t about chasing trends โ€” itโ€™s about rethinking how people experience textiles in their daily lives.

Innovation Takes Time: Why Weโ€™re Scaling Slowly

We often get asked: Why arenโ€™t you scaling up Dzukou Handmade faster? The answer is simple: real innovation takes time. We donโ€™t want to create just another sustainable brand; we want to create a company that genuinely pushes textile innovation forward.

The fashion industry, as it stands today, is one of the most wasteful and polluting industries on the planet. The average person buys 60% more clothing today than they did 15 years ago, yet each garment is kept for only half as long(Source: McKinsey & Co, 2023). Fast fashion thrives on overproduction, synthetic materials, and centralized manufacturing. In contrast, communities with deep textile heritage are struggling โ€” not due to a lack of skill, but due to a lack of access and innovation.

Weโ€™re taking a different path. By treating textiles as an evolving science, weโ€™re ensuring that every fabric we develop has a real purpose, a real story, and a real future.

Final Thoughts: The PhD Mindset in Textiles

Sometimes, I reflect on how much my PhD experience has shaped this journey. Patience, structure, and extreme objectivity โ€” these are qualities that apply not just to research, but to building a company that is genuinely trying to break new ground.

Our vision for Dzukou Handmade is clear:

  • Hack natural textiles to their full potential
  • Create sensorially rich, high-performance alternatives to synthetics
  • Support traditional textile communities through meaningful innovation

Itโ€™s a long road, but the progress weโ€™ve made in just ten months of dedicated R&D is proof that science and tradition donโ€™t have to be at odds โ€” they can co-exist, and together, they can redefine the future of textiles.

And yes, working hard when itโ€™s spring outside is tough ๐Ÿ˜ƒ, but the thrill of textile hacking keeps us going.

Follow Dzukou Handmadeโ€™s journey as we build the future of natural textiles, one swatch at a time.

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Prarthana Majumdar, PhD
Prarthana Majumdar, PhD

Written by Prarthana Majumdar, PhD

Engineer/ Designer | Co-Founder at www.dzukou.com | Occassional Blogger: Life experiences |Design, Society, Sustainability, Entrepreneurship, Social Innovation

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